THE BEST GARDENER IN TRAVELER'S JOY
I have written here that our town of
Traveler’s Joy* is too prosaic to be quaint, too down-at-heel to be
appealing. I should have noted the
exceptions to that rule, the most impressive one being the homestead of my
close neighbor, Mr. S, which has been tended thoughtfully and meticulously for
over forty years.
Steve S. on the porch of his house in Traveler's Joy.* Blue porch ceilings are a Charleston tradition -- they're believed to keep insects and "haints" (ghosts) at bay. |
Steve S. belongs to the second
category of residents in this Piedmont village: he married someone who was born
here. Unlike some ‘newcomers,’ however, Steve’s
upstate roots run as deep as his late wife M.’s, and he can claim a mill-town
lineage as humble and hardworking as the best of them.
I admired Steve’s garden for some
time before I came to know and admire the man who created it. Brick pillars clothed in creeping fig flank the
path leading to his front door, and giant crepe myrtles shade his drive. In spring, white ‘Ice Follies’ narcissus
bloom in the ivy skirting a trio of river birches, while in winter, the birds seek
refuge in a billowy windbreak of mature boxwoods on the western edge of his
yard and in a hedge of Camellia japonica
bordering a small lawn on the eastern side.
I love camellias, but have had bad luck with japonicas, which have often
succumbed to phytophthora at my
hands, or perversely fling their buds to the ground, unopened. The autumn-blooming C. sasanquas are easier to grow, being better suited to heat and clay
soil and resistant to root-rot. In
addition, they bloom in a more reliably temperate season, when their smaller
flowers are less vulnerable to the frosts that can turn a gloriously turned-out
japonica to a big shrub dripping with
mush, overnight.
Steve with a mature pink C Japonica |
Since it is human nature to covet
what we cannot have, however, I covet my neighbor’s sumptuous collection
of C. japonicas when they bloom in
mid-winter, blanketed with red, white and cotton-candy colored flowers atop
glossy shrubs the size of haystacks.
Steve traces his appreciation for
camellias to the first trip made to Charleston on his honeymoon with Mrs. S., forty-five
years ago. They visited country estates
and walled gardens in town, marveling at the camellias blooming there. “Back then camellias were not widely grown in
the upstate part of South Carolina,” Steve points out. In fact, camellias were
introduced to America from Asia by way of Andre Michaux, the intrepid French
explorer and botanist who established a nursery in Charleston in 1786. (Southern gardeners are also indebted to
Michaux for giving us crepe myrtles and the fragrant tea olive.) It’s believed that Michaux presented camellia
plants to plantation owner Henry Middleton around this time, according to
southern garden historian James R. Cothran, who writes in Gardens and Historic Plants of the Antebellum South that
“one of the original camellias that Michaux is purported to have given to Henry
Middleton, Reine des Fleurs, still
grows on the grounds” (Cothran 166).
Flower of C. j. 'Empress' |
Mr. and Mrs. S. toured the grounds of
Middleton Plantation beside the Ashley River, with its famous Butterfly Lakes
and centuries-old camellias, on that first visit to Charleston.
As newlyweds, they planned to build a
house in the country, although Steve had reservations about the idea. “I didn’t want all those varmints.” After renting in Traveler’s Joy for five or
six years, during which time their daughter G. was born, they decided to buy
the house they’d been living in, smack in the middle of town. “What appealed to us were the big trees on
this place – white and red oaks,” Steve remembers. Some of the oaks were eventually damaged by
storms and had to be removed, and as Steve’s thumb grew greener, he longed for
open space in which to plant. After
forty years spent developing a garden that charms with signature Southern
plants and understated grace, its tall trees and hedges embracing a swimming
pool, an arbor-shaded terrace and a Charleston-style, brick-walled parterre
whose pergola is smothered in blush-toned ‘New Dawn’ roses come May, this man
is remarkably modest about his labors, saying only “When I started, I was just
trying to fill up space.”
The dark, glossy leaves of 'Empress' |
The camellia hedge evolved slowly,
with the first plant arriving shortly after the house was purchased and others
coming along as seedlings from the existing trees, as gifts from family and
friends, or as finds in backyard nurseries around Tomahawk* County.
It amazes me that so many mature
camellias thrive in full sun in Steve’s yard (the tallest are over fifteen feet
tall and wide, and over twenty-five years old), but I have learned that this
gardener flouts horticulture’s rigid rules with few ill effects, feeling no need
to coddle plants that are lucky enough to get the sun, rain and soil that God
sends them. The only things growing in
Steve’s garden that receive special treatment are two exquisite specimens of Felinus domesticus: ‘Molly’ and ‘Dolly,’
reed-slim sister-cats of unknown origin.
(Allow me this digression: throughout
the history of this neighborhood there has been a preponderance of spinster sister-pairs. Two sisters owned the corner-house next door
to Steve and M. for many years; these ladies planted the sinuous privet hedge that was
torn out by later tenants. The Thomas* sisters, who owned our house at one time
and about whom I wrote in a previous post, were considered to be dedicated
gardeners as well. More than one
neighbor has told me that our property, which used to include the vast,
pecan-shaded meadow behind our house that slopes down to Limestone* Street, was entirely
cultivated at one time. As I have pieced
together fragments of stories about the Thomases, however, it appears that one
sister was more genuinely dedicated to flora than the other.
I learned this after Steve’s daughter,
G., called her father one spring day, instructing him to tell me that some
white daffodils were blooming on the banks of the storm-water ditch beside our
yard. I went down to inspect, and was
astonished to see several sturdy clumps of an heirloom species of small-cupped
narcissi in full flower, clinging to the steep bank. Upon closer inspection, I also recognized
some patches of muscari dotting the
verge below the sidewalk, and dug these up along with the narcissus, carrying
them to safer and more level ground on the newly terraced beds in our
backyard.
N. x medioluteus ('Twin Sisters') |
Some weeks later, W. G., a neighbor who helps his son with
his mowing business, came over on a sunny morning to cut our turf. W. G. remarked that on the spot where I’d
asked the men to dig a hole large enough for a new crabapple tree, the Misses
Thomas had grown a pair of matched camellias.
Looking out over my bare landscape, with the blank new retaining
wall and empty beds waiting for dryer weather, he informed me that the Thomases
had tended richly diverse plantings, with all manner of roses, perennials and
shrubs flowering where we stood.
What happened to it all, I marveled,
not truly believing such a landscape had ever existed.
W. G. explained that when one of the
ladies died, it turned out her sister was not as keen on plants as everyone
supposed. The surviving Miss Thomas
hired a man with a front-loader to come scrape the whole damn garden off the
property, pushing it to the high crust of land that rises above Limestone Street where he pitched it all into the ditch. Here
it must have washed away and become someone else’s problem. (And the topsoil, someone’s boon, downstream). The only remnants of the landscape that survived,
not surprisingly, were the bulbs, some of which clung to protruding roots in
the ditchbank and dug in.
To my mind this story speaks to the stalwart
nature of bulbs, and even more directly to the invidious nature of sisterhood...)
Steve insists he does not give his
camellias any special food and does not amend the soil. Years of falling oak leaves may have enriched
it adequately, even to the point of providing that degree of acidity that
camellias prefer. He does struggle with
sooty mold in damp years, but the proximity of the hedge to the house next
door, which limits air circulation, also protects the trees from morning sun in
winter, which can be lethal to plant tissue that has frozen during the night. The
only extra care he takes with his camellias is to fortify the branches against
ice storms, wiring them to the trunks with eye-bolt screws and coated wire. Nearly all the large, mature plants have
suffered damage from ice in previous winters, and Steve maintains that wiring
them in this way is the least invasive method, warning that “Cutting off
branches after they’ve broken makes it easier for the tree to contract a fungus
or disease.”
Steve's protective wiring in place |
His favorite camellia is the
house-sized ‘Empress,’ with hibiscus-like flowers in a shade of red I have
heard referred to as ‘blood-of-China.’
The glossy foliage of this plant grows very thickly, with leaves of such
a dark-green color they are almost black.
In this way the flowers are set off against the foliage as if floating on
a midnight sky. Steve claims he would
have this camellia even if it never bloomed, just for the sake of its beautiful
leaves.
Almost as large (and as old) is a
tree bearing pale pink flowers. Its name
has been lost, but it has spawned several seedlings. Steve has dug them up and re-sited them to
expand the wall of winter-flowering interest.
A tree bearing blossoms of pure white at the hedge’s center is also the
cold-weather favorite of over-wintering birds, evidenced by the nests tucked
into the branch crotches.
The Charleston-style parterre garden |
Steve has indulged his love of
camellias throughout the garden, with a peppermint-striped beauty sheltered
beneath hardwoods at the back fence-line, a vertical white bloomer on the west
wall of the house, and ten newly planted C.
sasanqua ‘Frank Parsons’s forming a screen in his enclosed parterre
garden. Talking to me, he takes a moment
to sit in this private garden ‘room’ crafted of brick and boxwoods and
carefully chosen shade-lovers, a living homage to the elegant Southern city he
and his wife loved so well that they were planning one last trip before she
passed away in 2011. Molly rubs his leg,
looking for affection.
“Plants are like little children,” Steve
observes, scooping the small cat into his arms.
“You want them to grow up and do their best.”
Everything in his garden appears to
be living up to those fond wishes.
Steve S. and Miss Molly |
Work Cited:
Cothran, James R. Gardens and Historic Plants of the
Antebellum South. Columbia, SC:
University of South Carolina Press, 2003.
Print.